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OK, the food's more familiar than newfangled. But it's not supposed to be avant-garde. Good Southern Italian cuisine depends on great ingredients and uncomplicated preparations. And so what if the decor has that by-the-book shopping center look. A swank setting is just an extra meatball in the marinara. With this criteria in mind, Giovanni at Crossroads Market at the Vineyards is head and shoulders above much of its competition. The co-worker who led me there got it right: terrific food, sensible prices. He neglected to describe the caring service, however. From the moment I called to ask directions until our dessert plates were being cleared, the staff was good natured, warm and caring. The only negative came with the recitation of specials. No prices were mentioned, but they should be. Many people are hesitate to ask and shouldn't be put in the position of feeling uncomfortable. That said, let's get to the best part — the food. To sample a wide range of starters, my trio decided to order antipasto caldo. The enticing platter contained at least two portions each of stuffed shrimp, baked clams, mussels, eggplant rollantini, stuffed mushrooms and roasted peppers. It was $10 well spent, since everything was well prepared and there was plenty for three. Most of these items are available individually. Several salads are featured, too. However, specialties include house salads, so my table skipped over this section of the menu. The frog's legs lover in my party couldn't resist sampling a starter special, frog's legs Francese ($8). Tender and sweet (yes, it tastes like chicken), he complimented their tenderness, especially in view of giant size. The legs were sauced with a good version of the classic white wine, lemon and butter blend. The incredible, garlicky house rolls proved ideal for sopping up sauces and gravies, and the house wine was a $4.50 best bet. House salads, which are free with specialties, were spanking fresh and adequate if not exciting. As with most trattorias, entrees primarily include pasta creations, pizzas and meat and seafood preparations. All the familiar favorites put in an appearance: lasagna, penne alla vodka, fettuccini al fredo, calamari alla marinara, scallops fra diavolo. We chose gamberoni-style shrimp scampi ($19), petti di pollo rollata ($14) and that beloved standby, spaghetti and meatballs ($13). All were perfection on a plate, served piping hot in generous portions. The scampi included five over-size crustaceans, bathed in more of the flavorful Francese sauce. They arrived perched atop al dente fettuccine, as requested. The pollo or chicken medley consisted of chicken breasts rolled around salty proscuitto and mellow provalone, flavored with basil — and partnered with tasty artichoke hearts and mushrooms in a light marinara sauce. There was enough of this delightful creation to take home for a second meal. My excellent spaghetti and meatballs entree, which tasted of a Sicilian grandmother's kitchen, also yielded a second supper. Desserts are standard, in keeping with the rest of the menu. No surprises greet diners, although the tiramisu ($4.25) was surprisingly delicious. We savored every bite. According to a hostess, new owners took over Giovanni Ristorante about seven months ago. They're doing a bang-up job.

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